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Published on August 24, 2013, 00:11

preface

The ancient city of Phoenix has been in my mind for many years, because Shen Lao's "border town" let me remember this small town on the edge of Tuojiang River, quiet and mysterious. One bag, one person and one camera, from Ningbo to Phoenix, thousands of miles away, I think and walk.

When I got on the K848 transfer train from Ningbo East to Jinhua West, my long cherished trip to Phoenix finally set off. Tuojiang, Diaojiaolou, Miaozhai, I can think of Phoenix, but other details about bluestone, bricks, shops and other people will be read by me in a day“ Dear passengers and friends, Jishou station is coming. Please take your luggage and get ready to get off... "At the moment when I walked out of the station, the tiredness of nearly a day and a night's journey vanished. Strange city, strange pedestrian, strange language, curiosity makes me excited. The 40 minute drive from Jishou to Fenghuang made me feel like a century long, but when I arrived, I was in a hurry. Gentle and elegant Phoenix, finally jumped out of my mind, really let me panic.

Phoenix is very small, but very beautiful, just like a pearl, inlaid in this mysterious land of Western Hunan. The clear Tuojiang River passes through the city. Stilted buildings line up on both sides of the river. The houses in the air are supported by wooden sticks as thick as arms. Get on a small boat and go boating on the Tuojiang River. The river beside the city wall is very shallow, and the water flow is slow. I can clearly see the water plants swaying in the soft waves of the Tuojiang River. These "underwater forests" collect the lazy sunshine of the Phoenix, and then give the Tuojiang River Life flexibility. The boat slowly went down the river from the rock jump, and the stilted building was slowly enlarged. When I got close, I began to worry about the empty floor of the stilted building. When the boatman sees the Miao girls on the shore, he will sing with them. The singing is loud and clear, and the girl's singing is as clear and ethereal as Huang Ying. Although he is not Nuo song, she is not Cuicui. Although this duel is only a performance, the Miao folk song has been labeled as "Xiangxi love". As long as the song is pure as snow, the rest is irrelevant.

There are many narrow alleys in Phoenix, crisscross like mu. Do not map, do not ask the way, stepping on the bluestone, with their own mood and go. Every lane is a secret scenery. If you don't go into it, you will miss many encounters. I spent a whole day wandering in every corner of the Phoenix, looking for the plot of "border town" in Shen Congwen's former residence, savoring the glorious years of the Prime Minister of the Republic of China in Xiong Xiling's former residence, feeling the most national ancient building in Yang's ancestral hall, and looking at the beauty of Hongqiao's wind and rain tower from the jumping rock, Just for you and me.

If you want to know a strange place, you should start at night. Because only in the night, my heart can be touched by deja vu. Phoenix at night is much calmer than I expected. Even if Hongqiao Food Street is bustling and bar street is noisy, it has already melted into the murmuring Tuojiang River. I followed the dim street lights and walked across the four bridges of "wind, snow, rain and fog". When I arrived at each bridge, I stopped for a moment to see the flashing lights in the river, listen to the shallow drinking and murmuring of the river water on the wharf, put down my guard and put the Phoenix night in my heart. Tired of walking, find a restaurant, sit down in the riverside seat, and then order a pot of home-made Miao glutinous rice wine, slightly drunk in the mellow wine, also slightly drunk in the night Phoenix.

On the last day of Phoenix, I woke up at dawn, not because of the alarm of my mobile phone, not because of the birds crowing outside the window, but because of my departure in the afternoon. In the haze of the morning, I walked along the Tuojiang River again. I want to see the enchanting Phoenix City before I leave. Before I got to Phoenix, I was nervous and worried that it would be very different from what I imagined. At the moment of arrival, my heart like shoulders, put down the backpack, relieved, this square inch of the mountain, water, bridge, building seems to be carefully placed by someone, let people enjoy. When I got on the bus back to Jishou, I began to be glad to leave like this: I don't miss the scenery, only care about footprints.

Postscript

I stayed in the ancient city of Phoenix for three days, without the constraint of specific itinerary. I woke up naturally every morning, and then walked in every corner of the ancient city with my own mood. Phoenix is not big, but let me see how not tired, walk not tired. On the morning of my return, I walked the four bridges of wind, rain, snow and fog again, once again along the Tuojiang River, setting the scenery on both sides of the river.

Practical post

Transportation: Ningbo East Jinhua West Jishou Fenghuang ancient city Jishou Jinhua West Ningbo East

As there is no direct train from Ningbo to Jishou, I have to transfer to Jinhua West.

Ningbo East to Jinhua West: K848 train, hard seat ticket price 50.5 yuan, time about 5 hours;

Jinhua West to Jishou: K533 train, hard seat ticket price 163.5 yuan, time about 18 hours, leaving in the afternoon, the next morning to Jishou.

Jishou to Fenghuang ancient city: on the left side of Jishou railway station is Jishou north bus station (Fenghuang bus station), where there is a direct bus to Fenghuang ancient city. The ticket price is 22 yuan. The whole journey is high-speed and the road condition is good. It's about an hour's drive. Then take No.1 bus to enter the ancient city.

Note: when you go back to Jishou from Fenghuang ancient city, you don't go to the original North Station, but go to Jishou bus station, and take a taxi of 5 yuan from the bus station to Jishou railway station.

get accommodation:

Stay in Baihuayuan Inn for 2 nights, the standard room is 136 yuan;

Location: the inn is located in the lower reaches of Tuojiang River in Fenghuang County, next to Huilongge sightseeing bridge, adjacent to Dongmen tower, Hongqiao, Wanshougong. If you can't find the way, you can contact the store. The store will come out to meet you!

Accommodation: Baihuayuan hotel has the same accommodation conditions as ordinary B & B, but the location of the hotel is excellent. The hotel faces the clear Tuojiang River, and you can see the Tuojiang River by opening the window. The inn has a large yard full of hundreds of flowers, which is the origin of the name of the inn.

One night stay in Phoenix waiting for you to come to the Inn (Hongqiao store) standard single room 68 yuan;

Location: the inn is located by Hongqiao, the central scenic spot of Fenghuang ancient city, close to but not near Tuojiang River. You can walk to Dongmen tower, Wanming tower and Tiaoyan. The inn is in the alley. It's hard to find.

Accommodation: accommodation is equivalent to the economy hotel, clean and tidy, but the room is a little small, feeling a little depressed.

delicious food:

Fenghuang's special snacks include blood harrow duck, ginger sugar, rice tofu and rice wine. Everything else is OK. The blood harrow duck is too heavy to be suitable!

About tickets:

When I went to the ancient city of Phoenix at the beginning of the year, I didn't start to collect fees. I didn't need to buy tickets to enter the ancient city. If you want to visit the small scenic spots in the ancient city, you have to buy a ticket, including nine scenic spots: Dongmen tower, Shen Congwen's former residence, Xiong Xiling's former residence, Yang's ancestral hall, Tuojiang boating, Hongqiao Fengyu tower, Chongde hall, Longevity Palace and the ancient city museum. The ticket price is 148 yuan.

Other notes:

1. The best off-season, less people, low prices.

2. Prepare more paper money. There is no coin in Phoenix.

3. There are many cruise ships and photo takers along the Tuojiang River. If you don't want to be entangled, you can politely answer "I've been on a boat" and "I've taken photos" to refuse.

4. Set the price before you take a cruise, take a picture or buy something.

5. It's better not to buy silver ornaments on the roadside. They are mostly fake.