Published on July 5, 2013 16:26
I've been looking forward to a self driving tour, but I've never been able to. Originally, I just wanted to walk around in three days during the Dragon Boat Festival holiday. Unexpectedly, it turned into a four-day and five night trip to the western regions.
I just heard my friend say that I want to drive out once, and I don't know how to make a fuss, so I made up my mind to join in. I ordered a plane ticket on the same day. Although I was still worried about my work at the most critical moment, I had a rare opportunity and didn't care so much. Before the trip, there were twists and turns. Dayao's daughter-in-law didn't agree to drive out. Then a brother said he couldn't go three days before departure. Despite all kinds of depression, he finally set off.
The first night
I was the last to arrive in Lanzhou. This is also the first time for me to realize the time difference. At 8:00 p.m., the sun is still hanging in the sky. The climate in the northwest is really dry. After living in the northeast for a long time, I had the feeling of southerners coming to the north for the first time.
At the beginning, I thought that I would eat Lanzhou Ramen when I got off the plane. I told me that Lanzhou Ramen was eaten as brunch. I don't want to think about it at all. But they're taking me to mutton!
Food like me always takes eating as the first priority when I go to a place, and I have to eat the favorite snacks of the local people. So after Zhongshan Bridge met, Dayao immediately pulled me to Zhengning road snack street.
Zhongshan Bridge as a landmark term in Lanzhou, almost everyone will come to take a picture. The night scene here is really beautiful, but I can't wait to eat delicious food, and I didn't go to the bridge to have a look.
The food on the snack street is really cheap and delicious. I have never thought about taking a picture. This should be the essence of food.
Recommendation: mutton kebab! mutton shashlik!
The first day
Today's plan is to have Ramen for breakfast in Lanzhou, lunch in Wuwei, Danxia in Zhangye in the afternoon and Jiayuguan in the evening. The first plan to go out on the run aground, more than six o'clock to go out, those Ramen shops have not yet started business. So he went to Wuwei hungry.
Lanzhou is a city where the Yellow River passes through the city. A few days before I came here, it rained all over the country. When it cleared up, I saw the beautiful Lanzhou City on dayaojiayang platform.
People say that the most beautiful part of a journey is not the destination, but the roadside scenery. I think only in this kind of free travel can we better understand this sentence. I was shocked by the towering mountains, the blue sky and white clouds, and the endless snow mountains in the distance. On one side is the summer in June, and on the other side is the snow mountain reflecting the sunshine. I'm like Grandma Liu in Grand View Garden
Tips: there is a big temperature difference between morning and evening in Northwest China. I believe that the body temperature should be less than 10 degrees when it's more than 7 o'clock in the morning, so clothes should be added appropriately.
We arrived in Wuwei at more than ten in the morning. It was still early. We changed our plan again and went straight to Zhangye for lunch. Jin Zhangye and Yin Wuwei have two opinions about this kind of address. One is about water source and the other is about religion. If you are interested, please ask the local people next time. But for us, jinzhangye is a famous place to eat test paper chicken. 90 yuan for a large plate, just like a washbasin, 50 yuan for a small plate, just like a small washbasin. This shop is obviously famous. Most of its customers are tourists. If I open a hotel, I will write a travel strategy to recommend my shop. A man from Yunnan was looking at a large plate of chicken rolls. He was very lonely, so he brought them to eat with us. Four old men ate two portions, one big and one small. In the end, there was a lot left. Is northwest food also very affordable. It's said that this family is not the best one to eat. If you have a heart, you can explore it again.
The highlight of the day is the Danxia Landform in Zhangye. It's about an hour's drive from Zhangye to Danxia scenic spot. The ticket is 40 for one person, but you have to buy another 20 for sightseeing.
This kind of landscape must be beautiful at sunset or sunrise. Please arrange the time reasonably. We are in a hurry. We lack a lot of strange feeling in the midday sun. Because of the soft soil in the scenic spot, the commentator will not allow the tourists to leave the footpath without permission, which is not very free.
Tips: there is strong sunshine in Northwest China, and there is no shade in the scenic area, so sun protection should be done well.
Leave Zhangye and run to Jiayuguan. The roadside scenery is completely different from that of Zhangye. The endless Gobi is full of huge windmills and high-pressure towers.
It was more than eight o'clock in the evening when we arrived at Jiayuguan. We went to see Jiayuguan immediately. But the scenic area has been closed. At that time, we didn't know that we had to avoid being trapped because the whole Jiayuguan pass was being repaired and surrounded by scaffolding.
Thanks to my spare time, I looked at the tire and found that there was a nail on the tire that I didn't know how long it was. When I sent it to the tire repair, the master told us that the tire had been punctured thoroughly. It was really troublesome if I wanted to have a flat tire on such a high-speed half track.
The second day
We got up at five o'clock and got to Dunhuang four hours later. That's what we thought at that time. No one expected that it was just a stop on the journey.
The international youth travel environment at the foot of Mingsha mountain is very good. It has a large courtyard and small houses one by one. It's very close to the scenic area. But we don't live there, but we live next to a family like youth travel.
The first news we heard here was that local people paid 5 yuan to visit the scenic spot, while outsiders paid 120 yuan. The second news was that they could evade tickets. Then we must experience ticket evasion! So we set out for Yadan in the afternoon to escape tomorrow morning.
Yadan is said to be 180 kilometers away from the urban area. You have to pass through Yumenguan scenic area before you go in, and you have to buy tickets for Yumenguan. Along the way, you will pass the ancient city of Dunhuang (also known as the film and television base) and Yumenguan scenic area. We went on the road with more than 400 kilometers of oil, and we didn't realize what a mistake we had made.
The ticket of the ancient city is 40 yuan. We don't have much interest in this kind of purely artificial scenic spot. We just take a few photos outside and go on the road
On the way to Yadan, the light is erratic. The car looks very big from afar. We have to walk for a long time before we can meet. There is no scenery on the side of the road. There is no reference except for the road signs indicating the mileage. It's easy to be paralyzed. We sing all the way to refresh ourselves. But the blue sky and white clouds are still happy.
When I was young, I recited "why do you blame willows for Qiang flute? The spring wind does not pass Yumen pass". Despite the erosion of wind and sand for thousands of years, Yumen pass is still a little desolate and majestic in this vast sky.
On the way from Yumenguan to Yadan, we met a place that seemed to have been an oasis, and there was a road sign with the word "Wudaokou". Out of the memory of the emperor, we stayed here for a while. A few dead trees here have a special feeling of desert.
The following journey is the most unacceptable mistake we made this time. I said before that we had only 400 kilometers of oil left. When we got here, it was only about 330 kilometers. We had no idea about the road behind. Dayao began to worry about whether we could go back. There was an office like facility nearby. He asked around and said that our current location was 100 kilometers away from the urban area and 60 kilometers away from Yadan, You know, we haven't seen a gas station outside Dunhuang. But when we got here, we decided to bite our teeth and keep driving.
With 240 kilometers of oil left, we can see that the landscape is more and more like Yadan, but we can't see the toll collection of any scenic spots. We don't know if Yadan has to drive for a while, so the only time we give up is here. Parking on the side of the road, the wind is very strong, a few young people overlooking the Yadan landscape, all kinds of jumping, and then back to the city. Ironically, when we get to the gas station, the car can run another 90 kilometers. A large part of the reason for this is that we go against the wind and come back with the wind.
The third night
Eat snacks in Shazhou night market!!! I've been thinking all the way, drinking and eating meat. Compared with the roadside scenery, I enjoy drinking with my friends in a strange city. All the tiredness along the way dissipates at this moment!
The third day
If you don't see the sunset in Yadan, you can't miss the sunrise in Mingsha mountain. Get up on time at 3:30 in the morning for ticket evasion. In fact, I prepared a student ID card for everyone before I set out in Shanghai (but some people forgot to bring it. That's what happened later). However, 120 tickets and the stimulation of ticket evasion still made us uncivilized. It's not recommended that students learn from us, Although as long as the morning more than 4 o'clock from any place into the wall, and no one will stop, and the wall is very easy to turn over
From that day on, there was one more girl in our team, and she was the one who showed us the way to escape.
It's really windy and dusty in the early morning. We're not the first to go up. There are many tourists on the top of the mountain who are wrapped like Afghan girls. It's too windy and dusty. It's suggested that students who want to see the sunrise should prepare anything that can make a mummy before going up the mountain. Please make sure that all electronic equipment and precision instruments fit perfectly before taking them out. My camera even uses headscarf and all kinds of packages. Up to now, there is still sand in it that can't be made, but don't worry, when the sun rises, the wind and sand will stop. Let me show you the sand.
It's a shame to say that the excitement of watching the sunrise for the first time in my life is not in line with my age. I don't want to say much, as shown in the picture above.
Xiaoqing, our companion in the latter half of the journey, is a girl who has gone through Southeast Asia and climbed Mount Everest alone, and she doesn't like to take photos very much. It's a pity that we can't see the exotic customs.
To tell you the truth, the sunrise and sunset in the desert don't look very different. They are all warm colors, but they are very beautiful. One by one, we conquered the mountains that no one had climbed, stepped on one beautiful sand line after another, and finally climbed to the highest point within sight.
I have the most cup, carrying the other two men's water and food is far behind, can only take pictures of these people's back.
Before leaving, they asked if they wanted a backpack, and the two said with one voice: Yes, so I carried my own bag. Who would have thought that these two people were climbing the mountain fast, and they were still shouting "hurry up, take the bag to my back". In fact, he was thirty or forty meters higher than me. When I finally moved to his height, the bitch climbed another 30 or 40 meters.
The sand in Mingsha mountain is warm even after the rain and wind the night before. Although many people rent shoes to go up the mountain, they can't feel the touch of the sand. It is suggested to wear a flip flop with two pairs of socks, and wear a flip flop and socks to climb the sand mountain on the flat road, which can not only protect the feet but also won't get in the way. It's OK to change a pair of socks after going down the mountain.
How can you come to the desert without riding a camel. But this season's camels are depilating, not to mention how ugly, and walking unsteadily. When I stood up, I was scared to death, holding the armrest all the way, and I couldn't take a picture. The uncle who leads the camel is very good at business. He charges 10 yuan for taking photos for everyone. He takes photos for you all the way, which is known as professional level. Since we can't take a picture, we entrust the uncle.
Insist on not showing your face.
The camels in the scenic area are basically raised by the citizens themselves, with a total of 1000. In the evening, you often see people leading camels running on the street. But each person is limited to two. It costs 100 yuan to ride a camel. The scenic spot will give 45 yuan to the camel owner. A camel is worth 7000 yuan. You can count it for about an hour after riding a circle. It's more cost-effective.
During the two hours of rest, our journey changed a lot. Originally planned to visit Dunhuang for another day, he decided to go straight to Qinghai after seeing the Mogao Grottoes and return to Lanzhou via Xining instead of going back to Lanzhou. I have to raise both hands to agree. I'm sorry I didn't plan Qinghai Lake this time. It turns out that our decision brought us a lot of surprises in the second half of the journey.
The entrance fee of Mogao Grottoes is 160, which supports the student card. When we went there, it was not very good. The red nine story attic was under repair, and the biggest Buddha could not be seen. It's necessary to form a team before going in. A commentator should take about 30 people, wear special earphones. Cameras and bags are not allowed to be taken in. They should be stored at the entrance. Even so, some uncles still bring a card machine in. I don't think as long as the flash light is not turned on in the cave, it won't affect the murals. But let's be civilized. After all, there are thousands of cultural relics.
After walking about ten caves, I was impressed by the historic sites for the first time. Although I can't understand them, I can feel that every painting is a peerless work of art. For the first time, I had the idea of going back to do my homework and get to know the Mogao Grottoes. In fact, I did look for relevant books and documentaries after I went back. I suggest you do your homework before you come. You will feel that the 160 tickets are not unfair at all.
It is said that every commentator here is not an ordinary tour guide, but a researcher, because the Mogao Grottoes report directly to the State Council. I guess it should be the most magnificent scenic spot. With our team's commentator is very level, explain the elegant and popular, I can listen to a smile.
About this tour. After the protection of the glass in several caves of the Mogao Grottoes, I saw the words engraved here. At this time, I was really angry. Recently, there has been too much discussion on this topic on the Internet. I just hope that we can pass on the concept of civilized tourism to more Chinese people.
Bid farewell to Mogao Grottoes and go straight to Delingha. Our plan is to stay in Delingha at night. This is the first time that we drive all night. We see such a magic sign on the roadside, but we don't have time to explore it. You know what.
The fourth day
In Delingha, we had the longest sleep in the whole way. We had a full seven hours' sleep, and then we went to Wulan for breakfast. When eating breakfast in Wulan, the tea from the shop was salty. Dayao said that it used to be an ancient tea horse road, that is, to exchange southern tea for horses here. A lot of tea went bad when it was transported on the road, but those people didn't want to throw it away and salted it. As a result, they found it was good to drink, so it was handed down. The truth of the story remains to be discussed, but I have been thinking about whether we are drinking bad tea?
Going to the tea card was another idea we had on the spur of the moment. Bolivia's "sky mirror" makes me yearn for it. Although I can't go there, there is the same geographical landscape nearby - Chaka Salt Lake. When I proposed to go here, everyone agreed, so I killed the tea card all the way.
On the way, we passed a temple called Dulan temple. At that time, we were just curious to see some Tibetan Buddhist temples, so we drove on.
When we went up, we found something wrong. How come so many local people were wearing gorgeous clothes, and then a person in a security uniform asked us to register our ID cards below. It was obvious that there were Tibetans all around. A Tibetan young man led us to an office and asked us where we came from. For the first time, I heard that when we visited a non scenic spot, we had to register our ID card. We were very nervous
"You are very lucky. There is a Buddhist activity here today. There will be a ceremony to touch the top in the afternoon. If you stay here for a day, you can still see the Jockey Club tomorrow."
I'm my mother's seventh uncle. I think we've done something wrong. It turns out that those travel books say that there are some activities and festivals. It's not nonsense. We can even meet them. But at that time, those of us who grew up under the red flag and were educated by the party were not aware of what kind of activities we met.
Forced by the strong atmosphere before the religious ceremony, we took a quick look and did not dare to take photos. By the way, I focused on the convenience and wisdom of the double joy Hospital... Xiaoqing explained to me, do not understand the students please ask Du Niang.
This thing is really sand painting, but it is also called "Mandala", which is transliterated in Sanskrit as "Mandala". I happen to have heard a little about Mandala before. I know that it is an extremely complicated work of art. It requires many monks to sprinkle sand of different colors into a picture by hand, and it is very delicate. But this eminent monk, why are you holding something like a template in your hand?
I didn't know what we had missed in Dulan temple until I got on the train back to Shanghai. Key words: irrigation.
Chaka Salt Lake is in a salt factory. The so-called ticket office is more like the factory's reception room, with 50 tickets. It is said that there is a place where we can contact the salt lake without tickets, but we didn't find it until we went back on the national highway.
In fact, the scenery is just like that. The vast expanse of white is like the snow plain in Northeast China. Because there is no reference object in the lake, there is no reflection, so it is far from the "mirror of the sky". The salt in the lake is industrial salt. Don't be curious to try it. Xiaoqing is very brave and says it's salty. I didn't dare to tell her it's industrial salt. No one knows how Dayao got such a big piece of salt into the car. It's enough pickles.
The next destination is Qinghai Lake, which is also the last scenic spot along the way. The road from Chaka to Heima river is very dangerous. Yaks or goats often jump on the road and walk slowly. The highest altitude on the road is 3800 meters, and Xiaoqing is still high, adding oxygen. I'm really worried about the safety of those riders on the side of the road.
It's a big prayer flag on the roadside, or colorful flag. It is said that Tibetans believe that once the wind blows over the Sutra banner, it is equivalent to reciting the Sutra again. I didn't get a close look at manidui this time. I had to show you the prayer flags.
Qinghai is full of large pastoral areas. We watched the classic desktop background of windows all the way, and realized the lyrics of "sheep like silver sprinkled on the grassland" which we were just learning.
In fact, I have great expectations for Qinghai Lake. I always have a very strange complex for this place. I think it will be extremely magnificent and beautiful, including cycling around Qinghai Lake. I also feel very romantic. But when I walk down along Qinghai Lake, I doubt my opinion. The highway around Qinghai Lake is a long way from Qinghai Lake. Qinghai Lake is not visible in many areas. There are also big cars speeding by on the road. When I ride, I think I have to pay attention to the road conditions. Maybe I didn't come at the right time, rape didn't bloom, I didn't go to bird island, so I couldn't see the smart Qinghai Lake. We did not enter the 151 base scenic spot, but casually spent 10 yuan per person on the side of the road, from the unknown path down to the Qinghai Lake.
Here, we have basically completed all the purposes of our trip. 2800 km in 4 days, always on the road, always traveling. Looking back at the harvest along the way, it's a pity that I forgot to eat Dunhuang fruits, Qinghai yoghurt and yak jerky, and failed to capture the starry sky of Mingsha mountain. However, after passing through the mountains, hills, Gobi, deserts, lakes and grasslands, I saw a different landscape. It's also a worthwhile trip. After I arrived in Shanghai, looking at the sky outside, I suddenly missed the blue sky and white clouds.
Finally, show a small face, thank you all the way.
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